Gastronomy and Wines
Gastronomy and Wines
"To those who accuse Italian cuisine of being elementary
compared to the French variety I must say that "baccalà alla
vicentina", of top quality, beaten for a long time with a
wooden hammer, soaked for thirty-six hours, cut into pieces,
scattered with cheese and browned with butter, oil,
anchovies and onions, cooked over a slow flame, seasoned
again with parsley, pepper and milk, is a true dish in the
French style. A whole refined civilization is simmering in
the pot."
So, for curious tourists who are lovers of good fare, here
is a whole series of typical dishes connected with the land
and particular periods of the year. In January try baccalà
(dried cod) "alla vicentina", cooked in milk according to a
recipe jealously handed down over the ages, accompanied by
generous glasses of Durello wine from the Val del Chiampo;
in February, Arzignano capons "alla canevera"; in March,
kid; in April, the white asparagus of Bassano, diuretic,
cleansing and rich in vitamins; in May, mutton and "risi e
bisi", risotto with tasty Lumignano peas; in June, sopressa
sausage from Valli del Pasubio and Recoaro, accompanied by a
hot slice of polenta toasted on the grill; in July,
"marsoni" from Valdastico; in August, "toresani di Breganze"
with "greased" polenta, pigeons whose flesh released
unforgettable flavours when it comes into contact with the
embers; in September, the never-failing "polenta e osei"
with spit-roasted birds; in October, "bigoli con l'arna"
from Thiene washed down with red Tocai wine; in November,
turkey with "malgaragno" from Montebello while December
favours "bovoni" with mushrooms from Asiago and the Plateau
of the Seven Communes.
The Vicenza countryside also offers a variety of products
which, suitably blended in the kitchen, make an excellent
contribution to tasty and appetizing hors d'oeuvres, entrées
and main courses, vegetable dishes, sweets and desserts:
from truffles to the oil products of the Berici and Pove
Hills, from beans to potatoes grown at a high altitude, from
honey to the "mostarda" (a spicy compote of fruit with
mustard) from Montecchio Maggiore, the old fortress where
bloomed the love of Romeo and Juliet, from the Christmas
sweet "mandorlato" to the famous fleshy cherries of the
foothills of Chiampo and Castegnero, from the trout of the
pre-Alpine valleys to the white celery of Rubbio, the
"corgnoi" of Crespadoro and the chestnuts of Durio, from the
most renowned liqueurs to fruit yoghurts, from pastries to
ice-cream, from mushrooms to ship's biscuit, from springtime
herbs to woodland shoots and the mineral waters of the many
springs in the province.
Vicenza at table
Even in the realm of food and wine, the art of good cooking
in Vicenza has a well-earned reputation, thanks to the
traditional high quality of its products. Here is what
Guido Piovene has to say about Vicenza's most famous recipe,
"poenta e bacalà":
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The trout route
A famous itinerary, which introduces the traveller to a land
of great fascination, the trout route goes through the
two still unspoilt pre-Alpine valleys of Val d'Astico and
Val Posina, encounters stones and rocks worn smooth by the
unceasing flow of water, enabling him to discover little
villages clinging to the wooded slopes, peeping out of the
green with the dark red of their roofs.
These enchanting
scraps of countryside blend in intimate harmony with the
rhythm of a way of life based on uses, customs and
traditions that show how a complete equilibrium has been
achieved between man and nature. The local trattorie
and restaurants , specialized in fish dishes too, and
the sales outlets for dairy and farm products are the
logical finishing touch to an itinerary that allows people
of today, immersed in the whirlpool of daily work, to return
to the peace and hospitality of a land that still has a lot
to say for itself.
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Vicenza wines: the d.o.c. wine routes
The vine has been known for over three thousand years in the
Vicenza area; in the remains of the pile dwellings at Lake
Fimon grape pips of "Vitis silvestris" dating back to the
Bronze Age were found. Known and appreciated by the ancient
Romans, present during the Renaissance on the tables of
popes and monarchs, Vicenza's D.O.C. wines are now
guaranteed by the seriousness and competence of the
producers grouped together in the Consortium for the Defence
of D.O.C. Wines Colli Berici, the Consortium for the Defence
of D.O.C. Wines Gambellara and the Consortium for the
Defence of D.O.C. Wines Breganze. Vicenza has three D.O.C.
wine routes: the Route of Red Tocai D.O.C. Colli Berici -
the Route of Recioto D.O.C. Gambellara - the Route of D.O.C.
Breganze Wines.
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As he drives along the route of Red Tocai the visitor can
admire the splendid Palladian villas, sample the typical
cuisine of the hills and above all the great wines produced
in this area, especially the famous Red Tocai, the pearl of
wine-growing in Vicenza and Italy.
The Consortium produces seven D.O.C. wines from the Berici
HIlls (Garganego, White Tocai, Sauvignon, White Pinot,
Merlot, Cabernet, Red Tocai).
Route of Red Tocai D.O.C. Colli Berici
The Route of Red Tocai runs along the foothills of the
Berici Hills starting from Palladio's "Rotonda" in Vicenza
and passing through the main centres involved in the
production of this wine, such as Longare, Nanto, Mossano,
Barbarano, Villaga, Orgiano, Longo and ending at Montecchio
Maggiore. The route is 78 Km. long and is marked by 88
signposts. It may be easily reached by leaving the
Milan/Venice motorway at Alte-Montecchio Maggiore if you
arrive from the direction of Milan, or at Vicenza Est if you
arrive from the direction of Venice.
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Its unique nature lies in the fact that Recioto di
Gambellara, unlike the other more famous Recioto wines, is
white; it is a natural sparkling D.O.C. dessert wine.
Along the Recioto route you can find unspoilt countryside,
visit farms and rediscover typical traditions; in the
restaurants and inns along the Route of Recioto you can
savour the pleasant combination of typical Vicenza dishes
with Gambellara D.O.C. wines, giving the lunch or dinner an
excellent finishing touch with Recioto di Gambellara.
The Consortium produces the D.O.C. Gambellara wines:
Recioto, White Gambellara, Vin Santo.
Route of Recioto D.O.C. Gambellara
The road winds through the hills of the communes of
Montorso, Montebello and Gambellara, in the districts of
Selva Agugliana and Mason di Montebello.
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The Consortium produces seven D.O.C. Breganze wines: White
Breganze, Red Breganze, Cabernet, Black Pinot, White Pinot,
Vespaiolo, Grey Pinot.
Route of D.O.C. Breganze Wines
The road starts off from Caltrano, skirting the hills, and
passes through the territory of the communes of Calvene,
Lugo di Vicenza, Fara, Breganze, Mason, Molvena and
Marostica.
Here you can admire extraordinary examples of Palladio's
art, such as Villa Godi-Malinverni and Villa Piovene at
Lonedo di Lugo, the mediaeval charm of Marostica, enchanting
countryside, the local cuisine with Breganze "toresani" or
pigeons and cherries from Marostica; but above all the great
wines are a sure invitation to tempt you to follow the Route
of D.O.C. Breganze Wines.