The old town centre, enclosed by the walls dating back to the Middle Ages and the dominion of the Della Scala family, is rather small. So it is worth parking your car and visiting Vicenza on foot: indeed, this is the only way to get to know a town that is a continuous succession of things to be discovered: its houses, palaces, monuments, passage- ways, bright internal gardens, street scenes with an air of nobility, bridges, squares, colour and atmosphere. In this way you will discover a Renaissance town which however bears the signature of one architect, Palladio, who gave it a character that can be neither erased nor repeated: a town that has nonetheless maintained many memories of the Gothic style and still shows traces of its Roman past.
The first itinerary through the old centre starts out from
Piazza Matteotti, once known as Piazza dell'Isola. The
Bacchiglione used to flow past Palazzo Chiericati
(1551); here there was the port of the town, where ships
laden with timber used to arrive, and the cattle market.
Beyond it lay vegetable gardens and the open country: this
explains why the façade of the building is so open and airy,
half-way between a palace and a villa. This is our first
encounter with Palladio and with the building that is
considered his masterpiece. Since 1855 it has been the home
of the Civic Museum with its rich Picture Collection. The
seventeenth-century portal attributed to O.B. Revese leads
into the courtyard and garden of the Olympic Theatre,
a theatre that is a sight to be seen even when there is no
performance.
The Olympic Academy commissioned Palladio to build it for
the representation of classical tragedies.
The architect began work on the theatre in 1580, a few
months before his death, and it was completed in 1584 by V.
Scamozzi; the latter also created the Fixed Scenes and
the rooms known as the Olympic Odeo. The theatre is a
surprising, magic place, made of wood and stucco according
to a classic pattern; the fixed scenes represent the five
streets of Thebes seen in perspective, but they are in fact
idealized views of streets in Vicenza itself.
As we go back up Corso Palladio, which Cesare Cantù
described as "the most elegant street in Europe, not
counting the Grand Canal in incomparable Venice", after a
remarkable little building which according to tradition was
"Palladio's House", amongst the green we find the Gothic
Temple of Santa Corona (1261). Inside we can admire
G. Bellini's masterpiece "The Baptism of Christ", "The
Adoration of the Magi" by P. Veronese and the charming
view of Vicenza by Fogolino on the predella of the
Madonna of the Stars. The High Altar (1670) is an
absolute marvel of inlaid marble and mother-of-pearl; the
wooden Choir too is stupendous (1482-89); below the choir
is the Valmarana Chapel (1597) designed by Palladio.
After passing, on the right of the church, the Cloisters of Santa Corona, destined to house the Nature Museum, on the corner with Contrà Apolloni we come to Palazzo Leoni- Montanari, a masterpiece of Baroque art in Vicenza, attributed to G. Marchi (1676). Since 1909 it has belonged to the Banca Cattolica which has had it restored and established as the permanent home of the collection of 14 paintings by Pietro Longhi and his school. In the inner courtyard is Hercules's Loggia, on two superimposed floors. A richly decorated scenic staircase leads to the rooms on the upper floor, including the Truth Gallery, the most luxurious of the rooms, with stucco decorations and monochrome frescoes by L. Dorigny.
Back on Corso Palladio, on the right stand the Church of
San Gaetano Thiene (1720) and, immediately after it,
Palazzo Schio known as the Ca' d'Oro, perhaps the finest
example of the Gothic style in town (first half of the
fifteenth century. Proceeding and turning to the left, we
come to Contrà del Monte; here we can see beautiful wrought
iron work on the windows and doorway of the side façade of
the Monte di Pietà by F. Muttoni (1703). We then arrive
in Piazza dei Signori, which has been the heart of
activity in the town ever since the time of the Communes and
also its "drawing room".
The majestic construction in white Piovene stone which
occupies the south side is the Basilica or Palazzo della
Ragione, the symbolic monument of Vicenza. The Basilica
includes the previous fifteenth-century Gothic buildings
with a double order of Loggias (1549-1617), by
Palladio. The rhythm of the construction is marked out by
Serlian arches and columns; the building, inside which
there is a grand hall (52 x 22 metres), is covered with a
copper keel roof.
Next to the Basilica stands the 82-metre tall Bissara
Tower; as long ago as the fourteenth century the Commune
had the first mechanical clock for public use installed
there. On the other side of the piazza is the Loggia del
Capitaniato (1571), an unfinished work by Palladio:
stately and powerful, it was the residence of the Captain of
the town, now it is the headquarters of the Town Council.
After the Loggia comes the long perspective of the
sixteenth-century Palazzo del Monte di Pietà, with the
fine Church of San Vincenzo in the centre: the façade of
the Monte was once entirely covered with frescoes, now
unfortunately worn away by time. The charm of this superb
square is completed by the two elegant columns of the
Redeemer (1640) and of St. Mark (1473).
Beyond the columns, on Piazza Biade, stands the Church of Santa Maria dei Servi; continuing on the right we come to Piazza delle Erbe with the Tower of Torment, a place of torture and prison where S. Pellico and F. Confalonieri were once held. At the end of the piazza, on the right, is a narrow little street, Contrà Pigafetta: that embroidery of marble lace and ornate Gothic elements is the house of Antonio Pigafetta (1481), the chronicler of Magellan's voyage around the world (1519-22). On either side of the portal is the navigator's motto in Old French:"Il n'est rose sans espine".
After going back up the Contrà and crossing Piazza dei
Signori again, we return by Contrà Cavour to Corso Palladio.
Immediately on the right is the architraved portal of
Palazzo Trissino-Baston (1592), now the Town Hall, a
masterpiece by Scamozzi; especially worthy of note is the
splendid Stucco Room on the second floor. Going back up
Corso Palladio towards Piazza Castello, we pass a monumental
parade of buildings and churches, so many that it would take
too long to mention all of them. However, we must point out
the Palazzo Zilieri - Dal Verme (1782) by O. Calderari;
almost opposite stands the Church of the Fathers of the
Oratory (1730); at the corner of Corso Palladio and
Piazza Castello is the majestic Palazzo Bonin-Longare,
built in the Palladian style by Scamozzi (first decade of
the seventeenth century), now partly owned by the
Association of Industrialists of the Province of Vicenza.
It has a scenic façade looking onto the internal courtyard,
with a double trabeate loggia.
Piazza Castello is dominated by the Tower of Porta
Castello (1343), the oldest and mightiest of the various
towers that kept watch over the town in the Middle Ages, and
enclosed by a great work of architecture, Palazzo Porto-
Breganze, by Palladio and Scamozzi; like many other
buildings it is unfinished. Beyond Porta Castello, in the
Salvi Garden, the Palladian Loggia and Longhena's
Loggia (1649) are reflected in the waters of the Seriola;
the park is a typical garden in the English style.
As we leave the Salvi Garden and follow Corso SS. Felice e
Fortunato, after about 700 metres we come to the
Basilica of the same name, an architectural structure
bearing clear signs of the early Christian period,
intimately linked with the origins of Christianity at
Vicenza. The first church, in the form of a hall, may be
dated at the beginning of the fourth century A.D.; it was
followed by a second early Christian church with three naves
which was flanked by the Chapel of the Martyrion di Santa
Maria Materdomini (398). The Benedictine monastery annexed
to it was visited by Charlemagne; the church was destroyed
by the Hungarians in 899 and later rebuilt, assuming its
present form in about the early half of the twelfth century.
Inside there are splendid and important mosaic floors (4th
century A.D.), while the paintings there include the altar-
piece by A. Maganza, "St. Valentine healing the sick"
(around 1585); this is linked with the traditional feast of
St. Valentine which, every year on February 14, draws many
people from Vicenza to this thousand-year-old church.
Unmistakable and characteristic is its Romanesque bell-
tower (1160), with battlements and an octagonal spire.